Open road
A cycle route in Co Clare has been voted one of the top 10 in the world. County native Diarmaid Williams gives an insider's view on the gems along the way… - 01/12/09
The only surprise about the selection of west Clare as one of the world’s most beautiful cycling routes is the fact that it took this long for it to be recognised.
The denizens of Clare tend to be somewhat low-key about the natural attractions that form their daily backdrop; perhaps this is why its obvious candidacy for a top global cycling holiday has remained something of a secret.
With the introduction of a cycling hub on the north of the route and various cyclist friendly accommodations along the way, west Clare is steadily growing as a destination for the recreational cyclist.
Of course, it helps that the region is dotted with homely little towns and villages, housing the best of restaurants, music venues, public houses and tourist attractions.
That appeal lies in its subtlety. Apart from the Cliffs of Moher, themselves a must-see, the tourist traffic is far short of the throngs you might experience in other parts of the country, and that relative scarcity of car traffic is, naturally, a blessing to touring cyclists.
Setting off
Here is one of my favourite routes: Start by getting off the Tarbert-Killimer Car and Passenger Ferry in Killimer and follow the Shannon estuary around until you come out through to Kirush. Kilrush itself has a beautiful marina and a fine coastal pier at Cappa.
Before heading north, go south and down to the Loop Head Peninsula and Carrigaholt as this is an ideal point to watch dolphins, the Atlantic Ocean to one side of you and Ireland’s longest river, the Shannon on the other.
On up the coast road then, with the Atlantic to your left, and you come to that town, so beloved of Limerick people, Kilkee. One of Limerick’s most famous sons, Richard Harris, is immortalised by a statue here, and BBC broadcaster Terry Wogan’s biography is fulsome in its nostalgia for this idyll of
childhood holidays.
It nestles in a horseshoe-shaped sheltered bay and of its many attractions, including scuba-diving, you can also attend the brilliant Cois Farraige Music Festival in September, a much anticipated weekend in the Irish live music calendar.
Great cliff views abound in the south west of the county, and you will note the change of the landscape as you follow the route north, stopping off at Doonbeg. ‘The Long Village’ is an ideal spot to watch and listen to traditional music and dancing during the Willie Keane Memorial Festival in October.
For a change in tack, there is a jazz festival here in June. Close by is the Greg Norman-inspired Doonbeg Golf Course, its lodge a venue to some notable weddings, most recently Andrea Corr’s. Even if you’re not a golfing enthusiast, this is a pleasant place with a beautiful course straddling the nearby White Strand beach.
After a fine meal there you’ll have the stomach for the rest of the journe, as you
venture into the fishing village of Quilty and beyond that, Spanish Point.
All along the Clare coast and particularly this stretch are some of the most beautiful beaches in Europe.
Spanish Point, so named after numerous galleons of the ill-fated 16th century Armada were wrecked there, has one such beach which is also a hugely popular bathing and surfing spot.
One of the great bonuses of travelling in west Clare is the sheer range of accommodation to choose from, no matter what your budget is. There are plentiful hotels, Bed and Breakfasts, hostels, mobile and holiday homes and camping facilities all the way, this region being one of Ireland’s favourite Summer
get-aways.
For the full article, buy this week's Irish World at your local newsagents, or pick up a copy HERE from only 50p!
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